I drove SW from the Kenya-Uganda border, through Kampala to Entebbe, then NW to the Murchison Falls, SW to Fort Portal, through the Queen Elizabeth NP toward the Congo (was Zaire), SE from near Ishasha to the Bwindi NP (Impenetrable Forest), out to Kabale, NE to Kampala, and out through the border at Malaba (in Kenya) again.
    Uganda was called "The Pearl of Africa" by Churchill and much of the southern half is a vast market garden interspersed with a few large National Parks. The deep volcanic soil makes most of it very fertile, so there's lots of people. No real dry country in this southern half.

    30 May. Drove through the border from Kenya at sunset, and 120k on to Iganga where I stayed the first night at the Mwaana Highway Hotel. Very nice for USh20,000 (U$12.50). Just my type of hotel, even if on the dear side.
    The very first impression I had of Uganda was how safe it felt; safer than Kenya. Nothing tangible, but a definite feeling of security, like coming home. Very user-friendly.

    31st. To Jinja, source of the Nile. Good place, the only place I saw Openbilled Storks close. Went on to camp at Mabira Forest Reserve. There's some great birds in Uganda. Species such as the Great Blue Turaco (seen easily at Mabira) and Eastern Plantain Eater (several flying over the road) that you hunt for, and just might miss, in the skeletal western Kenyan forests are often gardenbirds in eastern Uganda.
    Other species seen today were Great and Long-tailed Cormorants, Black-headed Heron (and nearly every day hereafter), Little Egret, Striated Heron, Marabou Stork, African Fish Eagle, Hooded Vultureat Iganga (the only town I saw vultures soaring over),Ovampo Sparrowhawk,  Mottled Spinetail; African Palm, Nyanza, and Little Swifts; Pied and Woodland Kingfishers, Broad-billed Roller, CrownedandBlack & White Casqued Hornbills (these Casqued are really big!), White-headed Sawwing, Black Cuckooshrike, Common Bulbul, Green-backed Camaroptera (heard nearly every day), Common Fiscal, Northern Puffback, Tropical Boubou, Slate-coloured Boubou, and Pied Crow.

    1st June. To Entebbe. There is only one teller at one bank in Uganda who can get Uganda Shillings from a credit card, (at Ush1600 to the U$1.00), so there is usually an hour-long queue. Changing money in Uganda cuts severely into the birding time as the following list of new species for the trip illustrates. It may be better to bring old-fashioned traveller’s cheques or U$50s & U$100s as all these can be readily exchanged at several places.
    New birds for the day were Hadada Ibis (the sound of Africa), Black Kite, Angola Swallow, African Thrush, Grey-backed Fiscal, Piapiac (the only place I saw this species), Rueppell's Glossy Starling, and Rufous and Grey-headed Sparrows.
    But there was a good start to the Uganda mammal list with a troop of monkeys, the surprisingly large Red-tailed Guenons, one female with a baby on her back was quite close before she noticed me. Shortly after, on my morning exploration of the Mabira Forest Reserve, a Striped Squirrel (Paraxerus ?alexandri), slowly climbed a little tree a few metres away.
    2nd. Entebbe to Budongo Forest via Masindi. I knew it was going to be a good day when a Great Blue Turaco flew into a low tree in front of me as I emerged from the Entebbe Backpackers at dawn. And while driving through the horrific rush-hour traffic of Kampala (the worst in the world?), there was a huge Marabou Stork on a streetlight overhanging all this traffic. These birds are really over-grown common mynahs.

    The Budongo-Busingiro Forest, an extension of the great Congo rainforest, and the contiguous Murchison N.P, mostly savannah, is a very, very good area. The Murchison Falls are spectacular, and the wildlife enchanting. A pair of Abysinian Ground Hornbills on the road, as large as pelicans and unwilling to shift (great photo opportunity); Warthog, Baboon, and Bush Pig all quite close; Chimpanzees, not too tame, all staring at the intruders. I mainly camped here (although there are clean bandas in at least three places), but on tour would probably stay at Sambiya River Lodge or similar so we could easily access both the Rock Pratincoles at the top of the falls (accessed with the 4wd from the lodge), the bigger mammals north of the Nile, and the extemely knowledgeable chimp & bird guide, Cypriano, back at the Budongo Central Forest Reserve.
    New species on the drive from Entebbe were Pink-backed Pelican, Hamerkop, Lizard Buzzard, Ring-necked Dove, Brown Parrot (the only two birds of this species on the trip - parrots in East Africa are quite scarce to rare), Pied Cuckoo C. jacobinus, Speckled Mousebird, Lesser Striped Swallow, African Pied Wagtail, Stout Cisticola, Fork-tailed Drongo, Lesser Blue-eared and Splendid Glossy Starlings, Slender-billed Weaver, Red-cheeked Cordonbleu, Bronze and Bicoloured Munias.

    Cypriano, head guide at the Budongo Central Forest Reserve, knows all of the plants, bird calls, and non-avian animals in his forest. It was he who cut all the trails 12-15 years ago and has helped nurture the localised Chimpanzee population to it’s present healthy size. In the late afternoon we went for a short forest walk. Birding within a closed forest is always challenging.
    The birds we identified were (African Emerald Cuckoo heard only), Narina Trogon (after some patient stalking), (Speckled Tinkerbird, Slender-billed and Honeyguide Greenbuls, and Fire-crested Alethe heard only), Rufous Thrush (Neocossyphus fraseri), African Yellow White-eye, and Red-headed Bluebill. The highlight was probably the hugely pregnant and very big Bush Pig sow which came within 20m of us to scatch her rump vigorously on a protruding dead branch.
    The mammal list inceased to five withYellow/Olive Baboon, quite agressive toward humans and their vehicles sometimes, and Warthog (do you know the song "Just a Warthog" by Flanders & Swann? Very clever).
    This morning started off with another excellent forest-walk with the master naturalist. There are some hard birds to see here and amongst the hardest is the Dusky Long-tailed Cuckoo always hiding above the sub-canopy, but with perseverance we finally saw him, a Spot-flanked Barbet high up near the Black-capped Apalis, a Green Hylia, (Yellow Longbill, Forest Robin, Jameson’s Wattle-eye, and Puvel’s Illadopsis, rare in E.Africa, were heard only), a Western (Black-headed) Oriole, and a Grey-green Bushshrike.
    Until we glimpsed a small group ofBlack & White Colobus and a Blue Monkeywe nearly forgot about the Chimpanzees.Cypriano pointed out their nests from the night before and talked of their habits. And suddenly, there they were, high in the trees, much bigger than I had anticipated, not too tame, all staring at the intruders. But because we remained standing they became suspicious and all climbed down to form a large group which moved away quietly. Had we squatted (assumed a non-threatening position) he said, they would have relaxed and probably stayed.

    The rest of the drive to the Murchison Falls was mainly through savanna and so the following open country birds were seen. Helmeted Guineafowl, Tambourine Dove, White-browed Coucal, Grey-headed Kingfisher, a brilliant Red-throated Bee-eater, and a Beautiful Sunbird. And at the falls Rock Pratincole (about 300?), and a Vinaceous Dove.
    Other new trip animals on the way were Jackson,s Hartebeest (looks like a horse with horns), Waterbuck, two species of Ground Squirrel, African and ?Western, an unidentified tree squirrel, and a small tortoise crossing the road.
    The Murchison Falls are spectacular. The entire Nile River, here over 100m wide, about 5m deep (you can see the bottom) and fast flowing, is suddenly forced through a 7m wide gap and shoots down at an angle of about 30 degrees to a massive, boiling, pool 300m below. Perhaps the most spectacular thing that happens in the whole length of the Nile. It really is impressive.
      After missing the local Bat Hawk at the top of the falls the night before but seeing thousands of small bats flying out of the cliff, there was no choice but to be in position on the very edge of the precipice before dawn. Sure enough, as the light became stronger and the bats began to pour back into their crevices, an adult  Bat Hawk scorched past me at eye level followed shortly after by another in what appeared to be sub-adult plumage.
    One ranger was on guard there. We walked around for a bit, his rifle in a sling over his shoulder as he delighted in showing me some of “his” birds. The Uganda Wildlife Service personnel are very impressive by the interest they have in all of their wildlife. This guy was not even a bird guide, just a guard, but he knew a lot.
    We saw a White-crested Turaco and I’d love to see it again one day, a Yellowbill, Rufous-chested Swallow, White-browed (Heuglin,s) Robinchat, Common Wattle-eye, Black-lored Babbler, and Collared Sunbird. A Black-headed Gonolek was heard-only in spite of being in an isolated bush. The Tchagra-Gonolek-Boubou members of the Bushshrike Family are often skulkers but beautiful enough to persist with until they are seen.

    To the Busingiro Forest. On the way to the Nile River crossing by Paraa, new birds for the trip were Cattle Egret, Wattled Lapwing, Yellow-billed Shrike, Northern Black Flycatcher, Ashy Flycatcher, and Village Weaver.
    New mammals were Elephant, Hippopotamus, and Giraffe. The elephant was over the Nile and about 2 km away but it still looked huge. It’s tusks were almost to the ground and as I watched, it browsed from the middle of the top of a tree that must have been 5m high. When we go back with a tour we’ll spend a day on that side, doing a game drive.
    From Bulisa I drove north beside Lake Albert to Wanseko, where the Nile flows into the lake to enquire about the possibility of a cheaper boat to access the Shoebill. “Fifty thousand shillings,” they said, half the price I was quoted at the Paraa ferry. Still too dear for one person. It was the only place in Uganda where I felt I had to be on my guard. They weren’t exactly friendly. A different type of people up here, more Sudanese than Bantu, and apparently desperately poor. The town smelled strongly of the dead pilchard-like fish that were strewn everywhere, drying in the sun. I don’t think I’ll bother ever going back.
    The return drive was just the opposite in more ways than one. The 20 km of road from Bulisa south, through the shrubland of the Bugungu Game Reserve, was brilliant birding in the late afternoon, especially memorable for the Bateleur, Heuglin,s Francolins, and Black-winged Bishops displaying. Red-headed Quelea, Green-winged Pytilia (Melba Finch), Pin-tailed Whydah (I think this has to be one of my favourite birds, common though it is), and Yellow-fronted Canary were there too.

    At the Busingiro Forest Reserve, Dideric Cuckoo, Chocolate-backed Kingfisher, Greater Honeyguide, and Black-throated Apalis were added to the list.
    The Royal Mile. Although I stayed in a banda at Busingiro Forest Reserve (40k west of Masindi), on tour I would stay at the nice and clean Nyabyeya Forestry College Guest House. It's also closer to some of the best birding on the planet - along the Royal Mile, an almost manicured dirt road which
runs through part of the Budongo Forest, and where 328+ spp have been recorded (350+ spp in the whole forest).
    Very good for photography, the Kingfishers especially; we saw Chocolate-backed, Blue-breastedand African Dwarf in the 2+ hours I was there. All quite close, and no telescope in sight! Odama Vincent is THE guide here. He has seen 318 of these species and they just keep popping up in front of you. It's a great place and Vincent is a great guy.
    First of all he pointed out a Tree Hyrax, sleeping in a tree fork. I’d spent half the night before taping this beast and trying to bring it in thinking that it was an owl! This is smaller than the drier country Ground Hyraxes that also climb trees to eat the leaves.
    We had a late start which enabled us to study a perched Banded Snake Eagle on the way in, and Vincent identified the call of a Crowned Hawk Eagle but we didn’t see it. Nor did the calling rare Nahan,s Francolin or White-spotted Flufftail appear. It’s very hard to see these flufftails, and the francolin is a rare rainforest skulker.
    New birds we did see were the beautiful White-throated Bee-eater, African Grey and White-thighed Hornbills; Brown-eared, Bearded, andGolden-crowned Woodpeckers; Little, Yellow-whiskered, and Red-tailed Greenbuls (you would have to live with these greenbuls to re-identify them all quickly); Yellow-spotted (Common) Nicator, Red-tailed Thrush (Neocossyphus rufus), African Forest Flycatcher, Chestnut Wattle-eye, Chestnut-capped (Monarch) Flycatcher, the lovely Black-headed Gonolek (dense bushes to hide in aren't allowed along the Royal Mile!), Red-headed Malimbe, and Grey-crowned Blackfinch N.canicapilla. Other heard-onlys were Hairy-breasted Barbet and Green Crombec.
    Birds are so prolific in this area that Vincent reckons two thirds of the birds of Uganda could be seen within one day’s drive of the Busingiro Forest Reserve HQ. That is over 660 species! Wow! I feel a world record coming on.
    To Fort Portal. That afternoon I took the awful bloody road from  Hoima to Kyenjojo where it joins the main road from Kampala to Fort Portal. Next time we'll join the main road at Mubende just so we don't have to go that way again. Although I drove it during the evening it all seemed to be villages and gardens anyway. And then I forgot the t/off to Kibale NP was in Fort Portal, so Kibale was missed out and so were the Ruwenzoris because of possible guerillas still sheltering from the civil unrest in the north-east Congo. It is probably quite safe by now but I'd like to hear that from someone else.

    6th. Queen Elizabeth II N.P. I liked this park very much although I only stayed one night and slept in the vehicle. My first close-up encounters with Elephant, plus Uganda Kob and Giant Forest Hog were the mammal highlights. Also first White-backed, Lappet-faced andPalm Vultures, all perched, and lots of Red-necked Spurfowl (don't you just love these francolin-spurfowl things?). Didn't do the Kazinga Channel cruise, and might stay next time at either the Mweya Safari Lodge or Jacana Camp although both are fairly dear; I think there is cheaper lodging at Kyambura Gorge Game Reserve which is nice and central.
    Contrary to what the guide book said, I found the northern part of QE2 Park, before the main road crosses the Kazinga Channel, to be good for larger animals. At least Buffalo, Giraffe, Uganda Kob, and Thompson,s Gazelle were there, and I didn’t see any of these further south.
    This is where the Grey Kestrel was and the place I began to have confidence in identifying those dreaded Cisticolas. Wing-snapping was the first, then Zitting (it sounds very similar to the ones in Australia but I think the Japanese variety at least may have a different enough “song” to be a different species), then Red-faced, Croaking, and Siffling. All in one day.
    Other new birds for the day were Black-winged Kite, Wahlberg’s Eagle, African Crake, African Jacana, Senegal Lapwing, Malachite Kingfisher (some of these species were seen from the Kazinga Channel crossing and others to the south of it), Plain Martin, Tawny-flanked Prinia, Moustached Grass Warbler, Sooty Chat, White-winged Widowbird, Red-billed Firefinch, Crimson-rumped Waxbill, and Village Indigobird.
    That night, about 11pm while sleeping on a side road, I awoke to find a small herd of Elephant, mothers with young, 30m behind the vehicle, snuffling at the road dust for quite a while. They eventually drifted off, and I drifted off to sleep again, very happy and totally relaxed. Elephants are so beautiful. As long as you behave sensibly, Humans, here as elsewhere, are the real danger, and there were none of those; back-country Africa shuts down for the night about 8pm.
    7th. Queen Elizabeth II NP to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.
    I took the back road through the QE2 Park toward Ishasha and the Democratic Republic of Congo (was Zaire) border. This deteriorates into a 4wd only track, and that’s in a dry spell. I found the southern part to be rather lifeless although there is some very good-looking forest several kms before Lake Edward that would be good to access one day.
    Great White Pelican, Three-banded Plover, Black Coucal, Madagascar Bee-eater, Double-toothed Barbet, Rufous-naped Lark, Yellow-throated Longclaw, Plain-backed Pipit, African Reed Warbler, Fan-tailed Grassbird, and Marsh Tchagra were all new birds today along this road, mostly in the first part, before the 4wd part beside L.Edward.
    What led me down this good birding road the night before was the sight of a very large, black, pig with a face like a small horse - a Giant Forest Hog - plus a large but young bull Elephant browsing unconcernedly, 50m from the road. And all those Red-necked Spurfowl on the road.

    8th. Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. Think Mountain Gorillas. I didn't go, (U$250 and booked well in advance, possibly 6 months), but they take 2 parties of about 6-8 people each per day to 2 different groups of Gorillas. Almost everyone said it was one of the highlights of their life. But I went birding with Magezi Richard, a top birder, instead. Richard is the Uganda Wildlife Service head bird guide for the Bwindi NP and is great company. There is also a private guide there, Alfred. And a large choice of lodgings around Buhoma, (which is the township beside the main NP entrance), for lots of tourists, from camping up to Abercrombie & Kent's newly refurbished resort-lodge.
    During the first morning with Richard additions to the list included Black Goshawk, Rameron (Olive) Pigeon C.arquatrix, Western Bronze-naped Pigeon (C. iriditorques- two birds, one displaying to the other - how lucky can you get?), Blue-spotted Dove, Bar-tailed Trogon,Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater, Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird, Tullberg’s and Buff-spotted Woodpeckers, Yellow-throated Greenbul, White-tailed Ant-thrush (N. poensis), (heard Kivu Ground Thrush), Grey Bush Warbler, Black-faced Rufous Warbler, White-browed Crombec, Equatorial Akalat, Blue-shouldered Robinchat Cossypha cyanocampter, African Blue Flycatcher(E. longicauda), African Paradise Flycatcher, Dusky Tit, Bronze and Northern Double-collared Sunbirds; and Baglafecht, Black-billed, and Veillot’s Weavers. We also saw the rare l'Hoest's Monkey and Red Colobus.
    Ruhija, Bwindi Impenetrable Forest's montane forest (2500m+) section, is quite remote c/f Buhoma and therefore hard to access. A 4wd from Buhoma takes nearly 4 hrs to access some special birds that are hard to find elsewhere. So we went up there in the afternoon.We saw Augur Buzzard, Cape and Mountain Wagtails, Petit’s Cuckooshrike, Black Sawwing, White-tailed Flycatcher E. albicauda,McKinnon,s Shrike, Brown-crowned Tchagra, and Black-throated Canary. And I particularly remember Doherty's Bush-shrike coming in to the tape playback and hanging around for a bit. These bushshrikes can be very colourful. Missed the Langden’s this time.
    9th. Up to Ruhija again. There's a very limited number of people back here, no other tourists, mostly researchers and rangers guarding the park. Birders stay at one of two research facilities where staff can come in to do the cooking if you bring your own food. It could be accessed by 2wd from the south side via the Kabale-Kisoro Road, probably by taxi from Kabale, which also seems to be the normal way to get to the park HQ at Buhoma (north side of the NP). Richard is thinking of buying a PSV for locals and tourists to more easily access Buhoma and the Gorillas from Kabale. Someone should.
    Driving up to Ruhija on my own I saw Great Egret for the first and only time in Uganda and Common Waxbill. While in this montane forest I saw Speckled Pigeon, Black-billed Turaco climbing along a branch, Olive Thrush, Singing Cisticola, Banded Prinia, Rusty-faced Warbler Ph. laetus, White-starred Robin, Regal andRed-chested Sunbirds, Montane (Black-tailed) Oriole, Strange Weaver (just what I said to myself), Grosbeak Weaver, and Oriole Finch. There are some pretty good birds around the edges of the Impenetrable Forest. I might just disappear into it one day and see what's in the middle.
    There was so much promise here that I slept in the car again. Only one 4wd and one motorbike went past in 24 hours - no walkers, no cyclists. An excellent place for a wildlife watcher.
    10th. Ruhija to past Masaka. Next morning a Mountain Buzzard zoomed past and landed about two hundred metres away and two Red-fronted Parrots flew over on their way to some secret feeding spot while I was figuring out a pair of Chubb’s Cisticola. Uganda Warbler, and Stripe-breasted Tit were other passerines new to this Uganda list. But you can't stay in Paradise forever, so about midday I moved on.
    Coming out of the forest on the south side was a shock. Before me stetched a very big, fertile valley, with the mountains to the south framing the scene. What a normal tourist would say, in many, many places in the world that I can think of, "What a lovely view!"
    It is, in fact absolute disaster. No forest, no trees at all, not one. Small farms covered the whole expanse, fields tilled to the near the top of the mountains. Nothing but people, the cancer of the Earth.
Just like you and me, nice people, only making a living, bringing up the kids.

    About halfway between Kabale and Mbarara, in some low, bush-covered and seemingly uninhabited dry hills, a couple of Scaly Francolin were on the road, making the third francolin seen for Uganda, and somewhere north of Masaka there was a lot of evening activity marking an unseen local wetland of considerable size (Lake Victoria?). There were Squacco Heron, Wooly-necked Stork, Sacred Ibis, and an African Marsh Harrier, all flying about, and a Lilac-breasted Roller on a wire.
    11th. Mpanga Forest Reserve about 37 km south of Kampala on the main road to Masaka, is the key to the cheapest, and probably the best, site for the Shoebill.  They have nice bandas for USh10,000. However, if you do not have your own vehicle you might have to hire a taxi all the way from Kampala as the Shoebill site is still about 20 km away at the Mabamba Swamp on the edge of Lake Victoria. There is a young schoolteacher, Kasasa Harrington, about halfway from the main road turn-off at Mpigi, who can arrange a boat. He's a bit of a rogue and I think the staff at Mpanga could arrange the trip just as easily and for less. Or you could do it yourself by just talking to the fishermen and ferry boatmen at Mabamba Swamp.
    As I found out by trial and error where to go (like the rest of Africa there are few signposts), several new birds were added to the list. They were Purple Heron, Allen,s Gallinule, Long-toed Lapwing, Red-billed Hornbill, and Swamp Flycatcher.
    When I returned to Mpanga, Odama Vincent was there too. He was over from the Royal Mile to examine two aspiring bird guides on behalf of the Uganda Wildlife Service and he and his companion were also educating some of the local schoolchildren about the hands-on conservation methods Uganda employs.
    The Government puts conservation into practice in Uganda. Conservation officers like these are constantly visiting schools and villages for conservation education and having villagers form discussion and action groups on how best to conserve the buffer zones around the National Parks and utilise them for light people-use at the same time.
    Firewood gathering and cattle grazing under strict conditions are both promoted in the buffer zones and locals are encouraged to take on the responsibility of policing these activities thus turning them into community responsibilities. Conservation has to be seen to be working. These are dedicated men and the rest of us have a responsibility to help them by supplying the tourists to finish off the equation.
Australia could learn a lot from Uganda.

    12th. Lake Victoria. Fortunately, Vincent had completed most of his responsibilities and had most of the day free, so he joined me in the quest for the Shoebill. Now it was my turn to be the guide - I was able to show him most of the birds I had found the day before and we both saw the sneaky Papyrus Gonolek fly across the road through the papyrus swamp in a belated response to a tape playback. White crissum! Yellow cap! Yes! Got him! What a beauty! It was my fourth attempt on as many birds in two days. Bad luck can’t last forever and a new bird for Vincent as well.
    We mooched toward our 8a.m. appointment adding Purple Swamphen, Blue-headed Coucal, and Eastern Yellow-billed Hornbill to my Uganda list. We picked up Harrington and drove on to the launching site at Mabamba Swamp where he underwent lengthy negotiations. Vincent and I looked for birds. Red-backed Robin, Superb Sunbird, Fan-tailed Widowbird, all new.
    The boat was finally launched at 1000 hrs, the reason being that if the Shoebill is missed, they can often be seen flying about around in the middle of the day. This is what happened to us. Great photo opportunities of many species. White-faced Whistling, Yellow-billed, and Comb Ducks, the latter new for Vincent too; the beautiful African Pygmy Geese, White-winged Tern, Malachite Kingfishers within feet - not new but so beautiful, so close. A Spot-necked Otter surfaced briefly. But no Shoebill. It was after 12 and the boatman had been paddling for two hours and wanting to go back. We had looked everywhere they could think of.
    Suddenly a young Shoebill (so they said!) appeared flying in the distance. Then another was up and still another! The last one came closer and closer and then flew right over the boat! It was very exciting. Harrington’s fee shot up from Ush20,000 to Ush40,000. (The day before he had quoted me Ush12,000, so I paid him Ush30,000). And another new bird for Vincent.

    I left Mpanga that afternoon and drove until 2300hrs almost to the Uganda border, where I slept in the car at the side of the road, (I was beginning to understand the traffic and people flows in Uganda by this time - away from towns Africa closes down at 8pm) so I could be the first car through the border when they opened at 0700. During the night a Ratel crossed the road in front of me. It's the Honey Badger, Mellicvora capensis, more ferocious than a Wolverine and can even force a Lion to move over to share its kill. A symbolic end to my wildlife watching tour of Uganda.
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    Animals seen - 230 birds, 24 mammals, 1 reptile. Not a great number but OK for a two-week prospecting tour where sometimes only half a day is spent at a prime location instead of two or three days. And a lot of time finding your way (no signs in Africa, just like S. America) and , in this case, looking at suitable accommodations for future tours.
    On an organised and longer tour with the same guides, such as the 19-day one in Sept-Nov 2004, one could expect to see 400-450 species, possibly more. A 3-week tour might net over 500 species.
    Uganda seems quite safe for travelling - I thought it was safer than Kenya. The Government is very keen to have a safe country to attract the tourist dollar and it shows.
    I’m also very keen to go back and see it all again; to meet these marvellous friendly guides again; just the thought of being there makes me happy.
    Why don’t you come too?